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Introduction
COMME des GARÇONS is more than just a fashion brand—it’s a revolutionary force in the global style industry. Founded in Tokyo in 1969 by designer Rei Kawakubo, the brand has carved a unique identity defined by avant-garde silhouettes, deconstructionist techniques, and a distinct anti-fashion attitude. For over five decades, COMME des GARÇONS has consistently challenged mainstream aesthetics, broken gender norms, and redefined what fashion can be. Whether through its main line, sub-labels like PLAY and Homme Plus, or its memorable Paris Fashion Week shows, the brand remains a symbol of artistic expression and philosophical depth in fashion.
Origins and the Vision of Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo founded COMME des GARÇONS (which translates from French to “like boys”) in 1969, launching the brand in a male-dominated fashion world. Kawakubo never received formal training in fashion, instead studying fine arts and literature. This outsider status allowed her to approach design with an unconventional mindset—eschewing traditional tailoring and instead focusing on form, texture, and meaning. Her early collections often featured oversized shapes, asymmetric cuts, and muted color palettes—far from the glitz and glamour of traditional high fashion.
In 1973, she officially established COMME des GARÇONS Co., Ltd. in Tokyo, and by 1981, she made a dramatic debut in Paris. Her runway presentations in Paris were often described as dark, mysterious, and disruptive, attracting both acclaim and criticism. These initial reactions helped cement Kawakubo’s status as a rebellious innovator.
Aesthetic Philosophy: The Art of Imperfection
What makes COMME des GARÇONS unique is its commitment to intellectual design. Kawakubo is known for rejecting typical beauty standards and instead creating garments that look “incomplete,” torn, distressed, or asymmetrical. Her philosophy is rooted in Wabi-Sabi, a Japanese worldview centered around the acceptance of imperfection and impermanence.
She once described her goal as “creating something that didn’t exist before,” and this manifests in collections that feel more like conceptual art than wearable fashion. Instead of following trends, COMME des GARÇONS sets them—or more accurately, ignores them. Garments may lack sleeves, include clashing fabrics, or be constructed from unconventional materials like felt, vinyl, or plastic.
Kawakubo has also famously blurred the lines between menswear and womenswear, promoting gender-fluid silhouettes long before they became mainstream. In her world, clothing is a medium for personal and philosophical expression rather than social conformity.
COMME des GARÇONS Sub-Lines
Over the years, COMME des GARÇONS has expanded into various sub-labels, each with its own distinct identity and customer base.
1. COMME des GARÇONS PLAY
This is arguably the brand’s most commercially recognizable line. PLAY is known for its heart-with-eyes logo designed by Filip Pagowski and offers simpler, more accessible streetwear. T-shirts, hoodies, and sneakers dominate the collection, and collaborations with Converse (like the Chuck Taylor All Star) have become cult favorites.
2. COMME des GARÇONS HOMME & HOMME PLUS
These are the menswear lines under Kawakubo’s umbrella. While HOMME leans more towards refined casualwear and traditional tailoring, HOMME PLUS is more experimental and features regularly at Paris Fashion Week.
3. COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT
As the name implies, this line focuses on reinventing the classic button-down shirt through prints, unusual cuts, and material combinations. It’s often playful and irreverent, yet always distinctly COMME.
4. COMME des GARÇONS Noir, Tricot, and Others
There are several niche lines, such as COMME des GARÇONS Noir, which emphasizes all-black, gothic styles; Tricot, a softer, more feminine take on everyday wear; and Junya Watanabe COMME des GARÇONS, designed by the famous protégé Junya Watanabe. Each sub-line reflects a different vision or design philosophy, yet they all orbit around the central creative force of Kawakubo.
Collaborations: High Fashion Meets Pop Culture
Although COMME des GARÇONS is often considered high-concept, it has also embraced the world of collaborations. These strategic partnerships allow the brand to reach broader audiences while staying true to its roots. Some of the most iconic collaborations include:
Nike: Avant-garde reinterpretations of sneakers.
Supreme: A high-low fusion of streetwear and intellectual fashion.
Louis Vuitton: A luxury-meets-experimental collaboration that generated immense buzz.
Converse PLAY: Perhaps the most recognizable, with millions of heart-logo Chuck Taylors sold worldwide.
These collaborations show that while Kawakubo may resist mainstream culture, she’s never afraid to interact with it—on her own terms.
The Paris Fashion Week Shows
Rei Kawakubo’s runway presentations are legendary for their theatricality, symbolism, and unpredictability. Shows often include models walking slowly, wearing sculptural garments that resemble cocoons, armor, or deconstructed suits. The music, lighting, and venue design often contribute to an immersive experience that feels more like performance art than a fashion show.
In fact, many of her collections tackle philosophical themes—death, rebirth, identity, or the void. Her 2017 Met Gala theme, “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” was a tribute to her radical influence. She was the first living designer since Yves Saint Laurent to be the subject of a solo exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Cultural Impact
COMME des GARÇONS has deeply influenced not only designers but also artists, musicians, and intellectuals. The brand’s unorthodox approach to fashion has inspired designers like Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, and even Virgil Abloh.
In the music world, artists like Kanye West, Rihanna, Frank Ocean, and Pharrell Williams have all worn and supported COMME des GARÇONS. The label’s distinctive visuals and philosophical themes resonate with creatives across mediums.
Furthermore, COMME has built a retail empire of Dover Street Market locations in London, New York, Tokyo, and Beijing. These concept stores mix fashion, art, and architecture, offering shoppers a curated experience that goes beyond mere retail.
Criticism and Controversy
Despite its critical acclaim, COMME des GARÇONS has not been immune to controversy. Some critics argue that the brand’s exclusivity and intellectualism alienate mainstream audiences. Others have pointed to cultural appropriation or a lack of diversity in casting.
For example, the brand faced backlash in 2020 for using cornrow wigs on non-Black models in a menswear show. COMME issued a statement, but the incident highlighted the need for cultural sensitivity in avant-garde fashion spaces.
Rei Kawakubo: The Invisible Icon
Unlike many celebrity designers, Rei Kawakubo rarely gives interviews and shuns the limelight. Her mystique only adds to the brand’s allure. She prefers to let the clothes speak for themselves, and her reclusive nature has turned her into a fashion mythos of sorts—a visionary who refuses to bow to trends, commerce, or fame.
She has said, “I want to be forgotten,” indicating that her legacy is not rooted in personal fame but in the ideas she leaves behind. Her work through COMME des GARÇONS has ensured that even in her absence, her influence will endure.
Conclusion
COMME des GARÇONS stands as a monument to creative freedom, intellectual rigor, and artistic courage in fashion. It doesn’t merely follow the pulse of pop culture—it exists in a realm of its own, shifting the discourse around beauty, gender, and identity. From Rei Kawakubo’s first collection in Tokyo to her mind-bending Paris shows, and from subversive designs to mainstream collaborations, the brand continues to defy expectations and challenge norms.
In a world increasingly dominated by fast fashion and social media-driven aesthetics, COMME des GARÇONS reminds us that clothing can still be art—provocative, philosophical, and profoundly original.